An odyssey into the mysteries of eBay and
beyond…

By Squirm

Note from Metal: In honor of today (January 14) being International Male Chastity Day, Squirm of the RubberZone site has generously allowed me to share this article and pictures of how he built his very own custom chastity belt! See below.

And be sure to subscribe to RubberZone, if you haven’t already!

 

Version 1.0 – September 22, 2023
Originally posted to RubberZone.com

This article is also available as a PDF download: RubberZone_CheapoChastityExperiment_v1.pdf

Introduction

I’ve been modifying some inexpensive “generic” full chastity belts that I’ve purchased from an overseas eBay seller. After some amount of success, I thought that others would be interested in this process and could apply some of these techniques to their own chastity devices.

Background

This section is a bit long and explains my experience with chastity and how/why I came to do these experiments. If you just want the how-to’s, please skip to the next section.

I’ve had fantasies about chastity since my sexual awakening (I was into bondage even before that). Over the years, I’ve tried various devices, but haven’t had much success.

I think this is largely due to my own body. My balls are a bit above average in size and have a wide range of “travel” depending on temperature, and I’m definitely a “grower” not a “shower” when soft. My taint and scrotum are also very sensitive.

This makes wearing ball-capture devices (such as the “Holy Trainer” or “CB3000”) difficult, in terms of sizing and security, but most importantly in terms of pain. Nighttime erections would tug on my balls (this is expected) but also create a tight spot on my scrotum that would feel like searing, burning pain, and would not subside for a long while if the device was adjusted. And, when in bondage (as I often am), not being able to touch or adjust the device would mean intense scene-ruining pain. No drifting off to dreamland in bondage while also chaste.

I used to think I was a “wuss’, and that clearly people online were having great success with chastity. I once tried wearing a ball-capture device for 10 full days without removal, hoping to build up a tolerance. In fact, the opposite happened, with the pain being so intense even during the daytime when I could shift things around, that I gave up.

Over 10 years ago, at a play party, someone let me try on their full belt. It was a “Reinhold” belt (unfortunately no longer available), and it did not entrap the balls, and it fit me very well. I wore it for a couple of hours at the party and experienced no discomfort. (Also unfortunately nobody at the party took the initiative to exploit my predicament. Oh well!)

Around that same time, another friend let me try on a “Latowski” belt. This one was way too loose in the waistband, so I could get out of it, but the silicone encased cock/ball area was very comfortable.

Based on those two experiences, I had high hopes that a full chastity belt with waistband and everything could work for me.

But, there were still hurdles. Most full belts at the time were very expensive, and most had little adjustability and my weight and waistline were fluctuating a lot. And, frankly, when I weighed more, my belly/love-handles would overhang the metal waistbands and feel uncomfortable or sticky.

In recent years, I’ve gotten my weight under control (it’s still not quite where I want things, self-image-wise, but my waistline is at least stable), and I’ve on occasion been in a position where I could purchase a full belt without feeling too much financial pain.

Still, there were problems. One well-established vendor who makes premium belts just wouldn’t return emails with simple pre-sale questions. This has in fact happened at least three times in different years when I’ve decided to make a purchase.

Another more recently established well-known vendor provided me with two belts and some custom options, such as a made-to-measure cock tube that doesn’t need a ball capture ring. But I just can’t wear their belts long-term. I appreciate their customer service and everything arrived as advertised, so I won’t name them, as others seem to have good results with their designs and the point of this article isn’t to be a belt review.

The problem with theirs isn’t the waistline, it’s the design of the cock tube, which is not a true tube but more of an open frame with various welds. Even though the welds are polished/smoothed, the shape of the frame creates various pinch points that lead to chafing. Once again, I’ve tried this belt on various 7-to-10-day “build a tolerance” periods, only to have to remove it when sections of skin on my cock shaft began to get raw. (I even got scarring one time that took two weeks to completely heal.)

And, having an open-frame “tube” might help with hygiene and temperature control, but it also means that urine goes everywhere. Now, it can be part of the chastity fantasy knowing that you always have to sit down on the toilet, but I still want the urine to go generally “down” and not create a clothes-wetting surprise shower at random times.

That experience pretty much put me off my quest for chastity for awhile.

Then, the pandemic came. For many of us, that meant spending a lot of time stuck at home, and not having rubber/bondage play with others. (I am partnered, and we do play together, but we both have other playmates for more intense fun with our respective fetishes.) As I was also a caregiver to a loved-one during this time, I didn’t want to risk picking up anything from a playmate and bringing it home.

And, for many of us, being stuck at home for extended periods meant a lot of online gear shopping and fantasizing. I decided if I wasn’t “getting any” on a regular basis, I may as well try being locked and seeing if I could solve my chastity-related issues.

The Advantages of a Full Belt

A lot of guys may prefer the simpler ball-capture devices, as they are lightweight, don’t bother your waist or hips, and are inexpensive. As detailed above, they just don’t work for me.

A full belt, besides being heavier and having a waistband (which can be part of the fun, feeling more secure, or annoying, if it doesn’t fit comfortably), offers a few advantages:

The rear strap holds the cage more firmly in place, making it more difficult to “pull out” and cheat. Even if one does successfully pull their cock out the back of the cage, the cage remains in the way of fun, and you’ve eventually got to put your cock back in the tube as the cage isn’t removable from the waistband. The rear strap facilitates holding a butt plug in place, either by simply preventing the base from falling out, or by using a “captive” plug that cannot be removed without the key to the rear strap. Erections feel more “contained” as the cage doesn’t move away from the body, and relatedly there is little or no painful tugging on the scrotum during erections. If you have a remote keyholder who demands a “cage check” photo, it’s much harder to cheat, as you can’t just carry a full belt around the office and slip it on quickly in the restroom. The constant reminder that the belt is there, every time you move, creates more spontaneous moments of horniness.

Enter The Cheap-O Chastity Belts

Luckily, about that time, a number of inexpensive full chastity belts began showing up on eBay. These had adjustable waistbands, and several different front cage designs, including full tubes.

They were being offered by multiple sellers, and after some searching I tracked down a seller who I believed to be close to the manufacturer, as they offered all of the various options in their inventory, while other sellers only had a subset. (Unfortunately, that seller is not currently active, otherwise I would post a link.)

I was able to contact the seller, and made a discount deal to basically order “one of everything” and extra waistbands and accessories. As a result, I was able to get four complete full belts with different cages for less than 1/3 the cost of getting just one premium custom belt.

Here’s a look at the four cage designs:

 

 

 

 

There are two different waistband styles, standard which is mostly unbent, and “ergonomic” which curves a bit around the hips and sits lower in the back.

 

 

The waistbands also come in two sizes, at least for the standard style, to accommodate larger waistlines. Both sizes are very adjustable and conceivably if you had a large waistband and wanted it smaller, you could cut off some of the excess material and file the corners smooth.

There are two different rear strap styles, flexible and rigid. The rigid strap has an opening to allow waste to pass, while the flexible strap has to be pulled aside or carefully cleaned after defecation, but it has the advantage of being able to be strapped very tightly and also the capability to hold a “captive” butt plug in place.

 

These belts aren’t without issues. The waistband material is thin with relatively sharp edges, and it is adjusted by placing screws and locknuts at various places, which you can feel. (The manufacturer provides rivets so that you can make the sizing permanent after you find your ideal placement, which I haven’t tried.)

They provide silicone channel material to line the waistband. This reduces the feeling of the screws a bit, and protects from the sharp edges.

 

But, the channel peels off easily, especially during physical activity, and it feels sticky when you sweat, it doesn’t slide across the skin when the body moves, such as from standing to sitting.

For this reason, I haven’t tried the rigid rear strap, as I’m concerned the silicone could come off while walking or running which would result in the metal cutting into the skin without much warning.

In theory, one could glue the silicone in place, but then there’s the issue where moisture could penetrate through all the adjustment holes and get trapped inside the liner, leading to unsanitary conditions.

The flexible rear strap consists of two thin steel cables covered in heat-shrink tubing, and then an outer layer of heat-shrink tubing. However, the tubing isn’t very flexible nor is it watertight. After short periods of use it would develop sharp wrinkles that caused irritation.

 

Another issue with both styles of rear straps is that they are designed to be fastened into place with screws. This means that in order to remove the rear strap (such as for cleaning or to remove a plug for defecation), you have to completely take off the belt using the front locks.

Premium chastity devices often have a separate lock for the rear strap, so that a chastity sub can go out into the world and maintain hygiene and bodily functions while still remaining locked up front, unable to remove the waistband.

The Quest for Modifications

Despite the problems listed above with the Cheap-O belts, they were actually quite promising.

The front cages all fit me reasonably well. (For me, its a trade off between the full tube with ball shields, which keep my balls from getting caught but press against the skin and I need to sit with my legs spread a bit, or the full-tube-only, being careful when walking so as not to pinch a ball between my leg and the tube.)

Here’s a closer look at the full tube cage with ball shield:

 

 

The real problems were with the waistbands and rear straps. This year, I set out to try and address them. I tried (and often failed) various modifications to several of the waistbands and straps, before coming up with what is presented here.

I set the following goals:

• Improve comfort – make the waistband smooth and padded
• Make a waistband cover that doesn’t fall off
• Make the waistband watertight
• The waistband cover should withstand contact with shampoo, sweat, lube, and mild household chemicals
• Make the rear strap independently lockable
• Make the rear strap smooth and watertight

The rest of this article will focus on modifications to the standard waistband, flexible rear strap, used in conjunction with the full tube (both with ball shield and without).

Things You’ll Need – And a Note of Caution

In the next sections I’ll lay out exactly what I did to my belts.

But, before doing so, I should point out to always use caution when working with tools, especially when drilling and cutting and working with hot surfaces as detailed in this article.

Don’t assume that these methods will work out correctly in your case. It took a lot of trial and error to work out these methods, but they may fail for others, or not work correctly if there are slight differences in the construction of your belt. (In short, please don’t yell at me!)

These modifications are essentially PERMANENT. I haven’t tried to undo them yet, but I imagine that if it is even possible, there will be a lot of scraping of glue residue and cleaning required. So don’t attempt this if your waistline fluctuates a lot or if you haven’t long-term tested the belt for fit.

(And, given the theme of this site, I should point out that you shouldn’t wear rubber while performing these tasks or initially testing the results. There’s just too many opportunities for damage from tool punctures, sharp edges, and chemical reactions.)

The tools I used included:

• A drill press (you could use a handheld drill and clamps but be extra careful)
• Cobalt alloy (preferred) or titanium drill bits. (Something that can easily drill through metal.)
• Center punch Razor knife (“X-acto”)
• Heat gun
• Philips screwdriver
• Hex nut driver
• Pliers
• Small vise or friction clamps
• Gloves (heat protective, not rubber)

And here’s the supplies – I will describe these in greater detail as they are used, and provide links at the end of the article.

• Marine-grade double-wall heat shrink tubing with adhesive, in various sizes
• Self-adhesive foam rubber tape or weather stripping
• Silicone caulk/adhesive (black or clear)
• Locking post
• Small padlock (luggage size, such as Master or ABUS)

 

Heat-shrink tubing is commonly used to insulate electrical connections. It can be slid over wires before soldering or splicing, then when heated it shrinks to conform to the shape of what is inside.

My early experiments involved ordinary heat-shrink tubing, but the problem was that moisture would still infiltrate at the edges and eventually lead to a musty-smelling waistband.

When I later decided to add foam padding, I knew this would be more of a problem as nasty things could grow in the foam with continuous moisture.

Fortunately, there is a solution. There is a special kind of heat shrink tubing for use in marine applications. It forms a thicker, more durable wall when heated, and there is a heat-activated adhesive inside which creates a continuous seal.

(I’ll be using imperial units here, as I live in one of the remaining non-Metric countries, but the same concepts should apply in metric.)

The tubing is sold in terms of diameter BEFORE shrinking. So, if you have a waistband that is 1” wide, in order to get the tubing over it, the tubing needs to be greater than 1” inside when flattened.

This requires a bit of math. The width of a tube when flattened is 1/2 of the circumference. And the circumference is the diameter times pi. So, tubing that is sold as 1-inch (approx. 2.5cm), when flattened, has an internal width of 1.57 inches (approx. 4cm).

The standard waistband on mine is about 1 1/8” (approx. 28mm), so I used tubing sold as 1-inch (because the above math indicates a “1-inch” tube when flattened will have 1.5-ish inches of width).

It was a tight fit getting it on, though, so you may want to go up to 1 1/4-inch tubing for a similar belt. For a waistband with curves, like the “Ergonomic” style, it may also help to start with a wider tube, but not too much wider, as you want to be sure it will shrink all the way tight when heated.

Additionally, the ends of the waistband taper to a smaller size, to fit into the locking area of the cage, so a smaller diameter tubing is necessary over the tapered parts. In my case, I went with tubing sold as 3/4”.

Depending on the size, I’ve seen the tubing available in black, red, or clear.

Note: I ordered both black and clear. I think I was sold an incorrect product for the clear, as it had no adhesive properties, so I moved on to using black. You may want to check the product you receive by shrinking it over a scrap piece of metal and seeing if it adheres.

 

Foam rubber tape (weather stripping) is usually sold by its true width. In my case, I went with 1-inch wide, 1/8” thick. Go with the widest size you can get UP TO, but not wider, than the width of your waistband.

 

The locking post shown above is a common type sold to leather workers to make purses and luggage (and restraints!). I used one to facilitate a separate padlock for the rear strap.

Modifying the Locking Post (Optional)

When searching for locking posts a few years ago for a restraint-making project, I discovered that all (most?) of them have very narrow openings for the lock hasp. A really cheap luggage lock will fit easily, but something more robust, even a small Master or ABUS padlock, will have difficulty inserting and won’t turn freely.

Tangent: The tight hole (cough cough) seemed odd, because some of my existing bondage gear purchased from a well-known vendor had larger holes that fit all my locks just fine. But I couldn’t track down a supplier. That’s when I realized that the bondage gear vendor had been modifying the locking posts by drilling out the centers. (You can sometimes tell if the chrome coating is missing from inside the hole.)

So, depending on what locks you prefer, you may have to modify the locking post.

 

In my case, for use with ABUS and Master padlocks, I first upsized the hole very slightly to 9/64” (a tad more than 3.5mm). At this size, the lock fit freely into the hole, but would not twist around or rotate easily. You may find that desirable (no opportunity for rattle).

After some testing, sometimes the padlock would twist or rotate a little bit and become stuck and difficult to remove, so I decided to upsize further to 5/32” (about 4mm) which has been working well for me, although sometimes while walking I can hear the lock rattle, but if you didn’t know to listen for it, you’d never hear it.

Place the post base in a vise and make sure it is aligned well with the drill. If using a hand drill (be careful, you can slip and get injured), try clamping the post base between two pieces of wood. Be sure it is secure, if the drill bit sticks the base may spin around and cause injury.

Modifying the Waistband

The first step is to make a hole for the locking post which will be centered at the back of the waistband.

The waistband comes in two pieces that overlap. The amount of overlap determines the final size. For the locking post, it is only necessary to drill one piece – the one that will be facing outward from the small of your back.

It’s important to first wear the belt awhile and find the best fit. Depending on what you arrive at, you may simply need to enlarge one of the existing holes, or if there are an even number of empty holes between the adjustment screws, then you’ll need to create a new hole between two of the existing ones.

Mark your desired location, it’s easy to forget after taking the belt apart.

If creating a new hole, it’s best to start by using a center punch. This will create a small indentation to prevent the drill bit from “skating” away from the desired location.

 

Then, drill a small pilot hole (1/8”) at the detent position.

 

Now, you’re ready to move up a size. If you have experience, you can go directly to the desired hole size. But if you’re new to drilling metal, you may want to drill an intermediate hole at about 1/2 of the desired diameter.

For my locking post, in order to fit through the belt, it needed a hole size of 1/4” (just under 6.5mm).

Clean up any burrs or sharp edges using a file.

 

 

In order to prevent water infiltration through the locking post (it creates a protrusion through the heat shrink), I added some silicone sealant.

 

The sealant I used appears white when applied but dries clear. You can also use black (or whatever color matches the heat shrink tubing you’ve purchased.)

Next, reassemble the waistband, sandwiching the locking post between the two strips, poking out through the hole. Wipe off any excess adhesive but leave it around the locking post and through the closest screw holes to ensure a good seal.

 

The locking post can rotate around at this time, as its base isn’t part of the structure of the waistband. However, once the heat shrink tubing is applied, and the silicone has set up, it won’t rotate.

Next, apply the foam rubber tape. Go as far out to the ends of the waistband as you can until the taper of the waistband meets the edges of the tape. (Don’t go so far as to interfere with the ends of the waistband that go into the lock.)

 

 

Now, we get to the heat-shrink tubing part of the process.

For the tapered ends of the belt, I slid on 3/4” tubing. I slid it on until it was slightly snug, but not too snug, because when it shrinks you don’t want it to split apart on the sharp edges of the waistband.

The tubing also goes a bit over the foam rubber strip, but at the outer ends is just over the bare metal. This is important for creating a good seal at the ends.

 

It’s now ready to heat-shrink.

Note: Do NOT use a heat gun near surfaces that can burn or discolor. These photos were taken on the floor, but during heating I used a metal chair and also held the parts with gloves – you can get burned easily, there can be melted adhesive or plastic, and the metal of the waistband transmits heat quickly even if your fingers are far from the heat gun’s output.

Also note that unlike ordinary heat-shrink tubing, which you can keep heating until you are certain it has shrunk all the way, I’ve found that the adhesive-lined stuff can split open if overheated. You may want to practice on some scrap pieces of metal and find that sweet spot where the tube has fully conformed, but hasn’t overheated and split.

When done conforming, using gloved hands, gently squeeze the tubing – especially at the ends – to make sure the adhesive has fully contacted all the surfaces and has a good seal. You should see a little bit of adhesive ooze out the ends when you squeeze.

 

Next, work the larger shrink-wrap over the waistband. It should overlap the smaller shrink-wrap at the tapers by about 1-inch, and be evenly spaced at both ends.

It may take some effort to get the wrap over the locking post. Try not to rip the material – go slowly.

 

Now, we need to create a spot where the locking post will pop through the shrink-wrap as it is heated.

Using the razor knife, create a very small slit, smaller than the width of the locking post, just get through to the metal and later when you heat the shrink wrap the post will force its way through the opening.

 

 

Now the fun part (and the permanent part, so be careful) – shrinking the main wrap with a heat gun. Again, be sure to do this with gloves and over a surface that won’t burn or discolor.

 

 

Start in the middle of the waistband, and work your way gradually outward, avoiding wrinkles. (Sometimes you can heat a wrinkle until it flattens out but avoid overheating as the wrap might split open.)

Don’t keep the heat gun in one spot. Move it back and forth and alternate between the front and back of a section, and above and below, and work slowly.

As you heat the locking post area, it will pop through. Using gloves, press around the edges of the post to make sure the adhesive is in full contact.

 

If all went well, your waistband should resemble the following photos:

 

 

 

Now, on to that all-important rear strap.

Modifying the Rear Strap

In these steps we will improve the smoothness and water-resistance of the rear strap, as well as making it compatible with the new locking post on the waistband.

First, using the drill press, enlarge one or more holes in the adjustable section of the strap so that they can fit over the locking post (1/4 inch in my case).

 

Then, remove the outer factory shrink-wrap from the strap. (You can leave the shrink-wrap on the steel cables, as it would be difficult to remove and it will be fully covered by our new wrap.)

 

Next, work new adhesive-lined shrink wrap over the strap, leaving the screw holes uncovered.

For mine, I used 3/8” (about 9.5mm) tubing.

 

As with the waistband, using gloves, squeeze the heated tubing with your fingers to make sure there is good adhesion. You should see a small bit of adhesive ooze out the ends.

 

After heating, you should have a final product like this:

 

The Completed Belt

At the end of the process, I was rather pleased with how things turned out. It almost looks professional!

 

 

To summarize, now the belt has a smooth, waterproof waistband with some padding for comfort, a smooth, waterproof rear strap to match, and a new dedicated locking post for the rear strap.

 

The semi-gloss finish of the shrink wrap contrasts well with the chrome, and also looks good with black rubber (or any color, really).

 

You do see the lock-nuts protruding at the back, but the screw heads on the other side are completely hidden under the padding, and more importantly, you do not feel them against the skin.

Here’s the belt properly applied to a horny rubberman:

 

The belt can be worn over gear, as shown here, effectively locking the gear in place. This isn’t suitable for long-term wear, unless you’re one of those people who can wear the same catsuit for days at a time!

 

 

Note that when wearing the belt underneath latex, pay extra attention to the rear lock. The post, the corners of the lock itself, or the metal edges of the rear strap could snag and tear the latex. You may want to wrap the locked area in electrical tape to provide a layer of protection.

Concluding Thoughts

First, The technical:

I have not done long-term testing. Just a couple of weeks so far. It is possible that the adhesive didn’t make a complete seal, in which case moisture will infiltrate. It is also possible that the adhesive may fail over time.

And, if my waistline changes, I may have to remove the shrink wrap, which may be an awful job. I do have an extra unmodified waistband, but I’d rather keep that one plain so I can adapt it to anyone who wants to try on the belt.

The main cylinder locks in these units are cheaply made and don’t turn freely all the time.

 

Compounding that issue, the keys are made of soft metal so trying to force a jammed lock can wear down the key. I use a lock oil to mitigate this problem.

 

Note: Any oil you use WILL leak out the back side of the lock, so don’t apply lock oil when wearing the belt over rubber. Oils can rapidly damage latex.

 

Oil the belt separately, let it sit for awhile, then wipe off any excess that comes out the back side.

Another issue is that all of these cages come with the same locks and keys. The seller indicated at the time that they could not order them with different locks. And, several pieces of bondage gear that I own (such as rigid metal leg spreader cuffs) use the exact same locks and keys. So, if I were to ever get into a genuine chastity situation with a keyholder, I’d have to give up being able to casually play with some of my gear, because I couldn’t have the keys around.

If anyone has a source for differently-keyed cylinder locks that will fit these belts, please let me know!

Finally, the personal:

I’m really enjoying having a “semi-premium” belt to experiment with.

During the creation of this article, while testing various methods (and sizes), I achieved a goal of 7-days-ish locked. (By “ish”, I mean that I would temporarily remove the belt to make adjustments. If possible, I would lock something else on as a placeholder. But I was in the main belt more than 20hrs per day.)

After the final modifications, I set another 7-day goal. This one went pretty well, although I had to remove things a couple of times – this was when I discovered that the factory rear strap would wrinkle and cause irritation, so I appleid the new adhesive shrink wrap.)

I almost made it to the 7 days, but on the night of the 6th, I was so horny and worked up in bed that I had a massive, slow-rolling hands-free orgasm in the belt just while playing with my nipples. I will have to think about the ramifications of knowing that I can cum in a full belt without “cheating” in the usual sense of getting free of the belt (free enough to jerk off) or using a strong vibrator.

Although, I’m sure if I had a devoted and intrusive keyholder that they would forbid other attempts at cumming. Maybe I need some kind of nipple chastity shield!

One thing I immediately noticed wearing the full belt, even more-so than when wearing a ball-capture device, is that I became instantly focused on sex, and usually in a submissive mindset. I played with a couple of regular playmates while belted (I even dommed), with my playmates cumming but me remaining frustrated. In fact, being locked makes me a crueler dom, especially when edging someone, as my plight leaves me no sympathy when they beg to cum.

What I didn’t expect was that the presence of the rear strap made me strongly crave having a plug in. I have a pretty tight hole and while I enjoy some fun butt stuff now and then, long-term plugging hasn’t been on my radar. But with the strap there, I just kept experimenting, and I successfully worked up to being able to have a small plug in (except for bodily functions) for 24 hours. On a couple of occasions, I slept fully belted with a small app-controlled plug in, programmed to gently tease me on an hourly basis. I was surprised to discover that I didn’t fully wake up for each intervention, or at least I don’t remember waking up.

 

All of this has given me the confidence to get a premium full belt someday. If I can tolerate these inexpensive, modified belts long term, then I should be able to properly enjoy a well-fitted custom belt. That assumes, of course, that I have that kind of money just lying around and that the vendors respond to basic questions. (I know – I ask the impossible!)

I hope this article has been informative and will inspire your own experiments with improving your chastity experience!

Now, where the heck did I set those keys?

Links

There are several sizes of some items, including sizes which were not used in this article, in case you are looking for something different for your own belt.

Narrow Heat-Shrink Tubing (Amazon)

1/4″ (6.4mm) Dual Wall Black Heat Shrink Tubing, Marine Grade, Adhesive Lined

3/8″ (9.5mm) Dual Wall Black Heat Shrink Tubing, Marine Grade, Adhesive Lined

1/2″ (12.7mm) Dual Wall Black Heat Shrink Tubing, Marine Grade, Adhesive Lined

3/4″ (19.1mm) Dual Wall Black Heat Shrink Tubing, Marine Grade, Adhesive Lined

Wide Heat-Shrink Tubing (Amazon)

1″ (25mm) Dual Wall Black Heat Shrink Tubing, Marine Grade, Adhesive Lined

1 1/4″ (30mm) Dual Wall Black Heat Shrink Tubing, Marine Grade, Adhesive Lined

1 1/2″ (39mm) Dual Wall Black Heat Shrink Tubing, Marine Grade, Adhesive Lined

Foam Rubber Tape (Amazon)

1″ wide x 1/8″ thick Foam Adhesive Tape Strips

Drill Bits (Amazon)

Irwin 29-piece Cobalt Alloy Steel Drill Bit Set (Premium)

Generic 13-piece Cobalt Alloy Steel Drill Bit Set (Budget, Not as durable, tends to drift, but MUCH cheaper)

Lock Oil (Amazon)

LiquidFix Door, Lock, and Hinge Lubricant | 4 oz Dropper + 0.5 oz Needle Combo Pack

Locking Posts (Ohio Travel Bag)

1 1/8″ Shiny Nickel, Lock Post with Post Rack, Steel, #SM-106

 

Metal would like to thank Squirm for the article and images above! Be sure to visit Squirm on his own website, RubberZone!