Tag Archives: how-to

David Stein has two speaking gigs coming up in California

I had lunch today with NYC-based gay leather activist, writer, publisher and educator David Stein, who is heading to the Bay Area later this month, where he has two speaking engagements booked. See below for details.

David Stein

 

HURTS SO FINE: EROTIC ABRASION

San Francisco Leathermen’s Discussion Group Program

The skin is by far the largest organ in the human body, but most SM techniques evoke only a small fraction of its potential for painful pleasure. Abrasion can be exquisitely calibrated from sensuous to excruciating, and a long, patient brushing can leave your bottom’s skin so sensitive that simply breathing on it will make him shriek!

When and Where

Wednesday, May 22nd, 2013, 7:30 – 9:30 pm

Mister S Studio, 385A 8th Street, San Francisco

Click HERE for details.

-and-

COMMON SENSE PRINCIPLES FOR ETHICAL BDSM (R)

Presentation at Northwest Leather Celebration (May 17-19 in San Jose)

If you want to do “the right thing” in a BDSM play space or a kinky relationship, but aren’t always sure what that is, come to this workshop. It’s not about “imposing rules” or “setting standards” but about ideas you can use to make your play and relationships more fulfilling.

When and Where

Northwest Leather Celebration

Saturday, May 18, 4 – 5:30 pm

San Jose

Click HERE for details.

You can read more about David Stein by clicking here and here. You can also find him on FetLife.

Not a good idea

Here’s an example of an accident waiting to happen:

gay bondage

 

When the candles burn down just a little farther, those METAL HOLDERS are going to get so HOT that they will cause BURNS on the bound dude’s skin.

If you are going to do something like this, use candles without those metal holders, and also cut the metal wick holder out of the bottom of the candle so THAT does not heat up and cause a nasty burn.

Also avoid expensive beeswax candles, which burn at a much higher temperature. And try not to burn the house down while you are at it.

Now you know (in case you didn’t already).

 

Reader submission: A homemade bondage fuck bench

Check out the pictures and information from RbbrStorage:

Dear Metal,

I thought you might be interested in the attached. There is a website out there that shows projects people have made by “hacking” IKEA products and using them for a different purpose than they were intended. It inspired me to build my own fuck bench for less than $100, using a $30 IKEA sawhorse/table support, a $60 black leather footrest cushion, and less than $10 in assorted hardware and scrap plywood. The cushion can be raised at the front or back, or both, and it’s surprisingly stable. It took about an hour to build, and we used it for a fun and successful test drive last night.

It includes a holder for a Fun Factory penis massager, made from a drink holder, a pipe support clip and a few eyelets, for hands-free orgasm. It even includes a handy shelf for lube, towels, etc.

The vibrator is a Fun Factory Cobra Libre from Stockroom:

Using this is the only way I’m allowed to cum anymore, and only in bondage. It’s a pretty awesome machine.

I’m planning to add a few more details, like a platform for resting the weight on my knees, and maybe a cushion under the neck to hold the head up.

I’m sure IKEA has something that will work for both of those needs. Maybe if enough of your readers come up with cheap and simple projects like this, we can get IKEA to add a dungeon department.

Cheers,

RbbrStorage

 

Metal would like to thank RbbrStorage for the pictures and information above.

To find out what is inside this guy’s mind, be sure to read his story:

The Roommate

Bondage for Pain

Bondage For Pain Checkmate magazine

Bondage for Pain

By zerotsm

This article originally appeared in Checkmate magazine, Issue 8, August 1994

Part 1

Safety Considerations: The practices described in this article are safe under judicious application and regular supervision. However, it should be emphasized that severely restricted positions and tight bondage can cause problems ranging from nerve damage to asphyxiation. Both Top and bottom should be constantly alert for circulatory or breathing problems. Specific safety warnings about specific positions are indicated within this article.

Many people think of bondage only as a means of keeping a bottom in his place, either to find him easily when you are ready to play or to keep him from moving around while you inflict pain. If you think that tying someone down and whipping them is a lot of work, make your bondage do double duty. Apply bondage that will generate pain.

Painful bondage can be intense, hurting so badly that it can be tolerated only for a few minutes, or it can be prolonged and insidious, appearing to offer no challenge at all, but hurting quite badly after several hours. An example of the latter is simply to be bound immobile for a long time. Even a comfortable position, such as being seated normally in a chair will become uncomfortable after three or four hours if the person is strapped in so that he cannot move at all (see Fig. 5). The bondage chair is quite safe, as long as the bondage is not so tight that circulation is cut off or nerves get pinched.

The chair is still relatively easy, because all major joints are bent at a comfortable angle. The next level up in discomfort is being placed in a sleepsack and in turn strapped down so that one cannot move. The arms will start to ache first, because of the elbows being held straight with the arms against the sides of the body. The same effect can be had with mummification. The main caution in the use of sleepsacks or mummification is to check on numbness, especially in the arms.

Complete immobility is not necessary to create painful bondage. A favorite of HC is shown in Fig. 2. A chain leads from a steel collar to Darby style handcuffs behind the back. The chain length is adjusted so that the forearms are horizontal. The bottom is totally free to move about otherwise. This position is a great example of insidious painful bondage. For the first fifteen minutes, it will seem entirely trivial, but some people will notice distinct discomfort in the shoulders and upper arms after a half hour. At the one hour mark, all but the true pain pigs will want out of the position. The subject will try moving his hands and arms about in various ways seeking comfort for the shoulder that hurts the most, which will transfer the stress to the other shoulder. At this point the fun begins for the top, watching the bottom squirm.

Bondage For Pain Checkmate MetalbondNYC_BondageForPain_3The Darby handcuffs place no undue stress on the wrists so there is little danger of nerve damage in the hands, the position jut keeps hurting and hurting more with time. If you don’t have a pain pig bottom and you want to make the scene last longer, say an overnight scene, start out with the arms lower down, or raise and lower them as the scene progresses. If you want to hurry the scene along, run a strap across the chest through the arms. This will prevent the bottom from gaining any sort of relief by shifting position.

Safety considerations: Do not raise the arms above the horizontal to hurry things up. Extreme hammerlock positions place excessive stress on the rotator cuff and can cause physical damage. It may interest you to know that in college wrestling, one is disqualified by taking a hammerlock beyond the horizontal. While this position can be done with a leather collar, or with leather neck and wrists harnesses expressly made for the purpose, the steel collar is preferred. Leather will tend to choke, while the rigid steel will just pivot on the bottom’s shoulders and dig under his chin. To do this scene on a bottom with a prominent Adam’s apple, a chest harness with a ring back can be substituted for the collar (see Fig. 1). Over all, this position is pretty safe and does not have to be monitored closely, but you’ll want to remain within earshot so you can hear the bottom scream and beg for release.

If the wrists to the collar position doesn’t seem enough, the chain can be extended down to leg irons for a hogtied in steel position. If you are feeling generous, lock the chain to the mid-point of the leg irons. We were not feeling generous, so in addition, we locked the leg irons together as shown in Fig. 4.

Bondage For Pain Checkmate magazine MetalbondNYC_BondageForPain_5

You don’t have to pull them up too tight. The legs will eventually cramp, so that the bottom will have more than just his shoulders to think about. As in any hogtie position, this scene needs to be continuously monitored. Unless the bottom is capable of turning on his side, the pressure on his chest will make breathing difficult. Eventually the muscles involved in breathing will totally tire from this position and the bottom must be released or turned on his side. The problem will occur quickly for obese people, but even athletic in-shape individuals need to be monitored. If your bottom has back problems, you can still do this scene, but do not draw the legs up too tightly.

Another painful position which HC and I cam up with independently is called “The post torture.” All that is needed for the original version is a vertical post or tree, padded wrist and ankle restraints, padding, such as a pillow, and some rope. A 4×4 post or tree of similar dimensions with no branches in the way is ideal. The captive is placed kneeling on the pad with his back to the post. The ankle restraints are tied together behind the post. The arms are raised over the head and locked behind the post in the restraints. This is the basic position. If you are the patient sort, all you have to do is wait. Of course while you are waiting, tits, cock and balls are available for your amusement. The stress in the original version is on the arms, chest and back.

Safety considerations: Don’t skimp on the knee padding. The object is to make the upper body hurt, you don’t want to have to quit the scene because the knees are giving out. People who have knee problems should do the suspension alternative discussed below. The strain on the back is also a prime consideration. People with any sort of back problem should not do the original version, but there is an effective alternative position.

This position is one that must be monitored continuously. Like a crucifixion scene, the rib cage and abdominal cavity are placed under a lot of stress. Like being hogtied while lying on the stomach, the muscles associated with breathing will tire. While most people will want out of the scene before breathing becomes a problem, it is something that must be considered.

The back problem can be eliminated by strapping the waist to the pole. A large weight lifting belt works well. This relieves nearly all of the stress on the back and transfers it to the chest and arms. You can now get very intense with this position by connecting the wrist and ankle restraints with rope or straps and tightening it enough to just raise the feet off the ground (see Fig. 3).  Now watch the bottom struggle, he can try to lift his legs to ease his arms but he won’t be able to hold them high for very long. This tends to be a very short scene, so use a slip knot at the feet so you can loosen things quickly.

Humane Restraint makes a quick release strap buckle which allows instant removal. This is preferable to rope since it is easier to manipulate when tightening or loosening the strap to intensify or ease the stress.

There is a risk of dislocating the shoulders if the position is made too tight. The average person will tell you anything you want in fifteen minutes. With pain pigs, the limiting factor is the hands going numb at roughly the thirty minute mark.

Yet another variation that I like is to hang the bottom from the post in a suspension harness, instead of having him on his knees. Having no part of the body touching the ground enhances the feeling of helplessness. Another plus is eliminating all worry about knee problems. The downsides are the usual ones with suspension, legs going numb because of pressure from the harness and the rare individual that gets dizzy or nauseous when suspended.

Bondage For Pain

Part 2

In part 1, I discussed post torture. If you do not have a post or tree available, a free-standing restraint system is possible. You will need a steel collar with at least one attaching ring and a couple of padlocks and chain, in addition to the items used for the traditional post torture. After attaching the ankle and wrist restraints, have the bottom kneel. Put on the collar and fasten his wrists to the attaching ring with a padlock, as well as the length of chain Then run the chain to the ankle restraints (see Fig. 7 ) .  It is also possible to start out with the bottom lying down. The same safety considerations as the traditional post torture apply here. Since the bondage sculpture you have created is vertical without any supporting structure, there is the additional danger that he might fall over. It is, therefore, even more important that the subject be monitored continuously.

Bondage for Pain Checkmate magazine MetalbondNYC_BondageForPain_8

Other painful bondage involves stretching the legs in various ways. Stretching the hamstrings is popular. One way to do it is to bind the wrists and ankles together in front of the person while they are seated on a slotted table. Straps are then placed just above the knees and tightened. (See Figs. 6 and 8 ) .

Another way to do it is have their legs strapped down tight to begin with, then pull on their wrists towards their feet to tighten. The former method seems slightly easier on the back than the latter.

One can also stretch the legs sideways. At some Inferno runs, there was a machine made ostensively for the purpose of limbering up ballet dancer’s legs. By turning a crank, wedges moved against the legs to spread them apart. At Inferno XX, a simpler means was devised. This was simply a 2X6 8 feet long with one inch holes drilled in each end. The bottom sat on one side, with either boot hoist or ankle restraints on, ropes led through the holes to a small block and tackle, which was carefully tightened. Extreme care must be taken with either of these devices to prevent going too far and tearing a ligament.

There is another technique that combines leg stretching with some discomfort for the arms. For this, a low stool, about 12 to 14 inches high is needed as well as three points on or near the floor, positioned in an equilateral triangle, about 8 to 10 feet on a side, as well as some rope and wrist and ankle restraints. After the restraints are on the bottom, he is placed on the stool, then assisted in leaning back and supporting his upper body with his arms behind him. (See Fig. 9 . )  Then the legs are stretched to the other two fastening points. All that is needed is rope to the distant screw eyes, you don’t have to stretch the legs very tight to achieve a good level of discomfort.

After all that stretching, our bottom might like to be crunched into a ball. One item that has appeared in the literature is the bungee board. (See Fig. 10 . ) This is another scene that looks easy until you have tried it.

Bondage For Pain Checkmate magazine MetalbondNYC_BondageForPain_10

Another variant of being balled up is the parrot perch. For this a secure suspension point and a chain host is mandatory. Other required items are padded wrist restraints (Humane Restraints are recommended because of their strength. Many of the wrist restraints found in S/M toy stores may have the connecting rings or staples pull away from the leather and an embarrassing or dangerous moment), a quick link or double headed clip, knee pads, a 2” pipe and some chain are needed. Some people like to use a 4X4 with screw eyes, but for safety, eyes that go clear through the 4X4 and bolted on the other end should be used. To place someone in the parrot perch, put on the wrist restraints and fasten them together with a quick link or a double-headed clip. You may have to use more than one quick link to get the correct distance, which is the width of both the subject’s legs placed together. Alternatively, a short web belt with a quick release buckle (again, Humane Restraint makes a secure, relatively cheap belt which will work) can be used in place of the steel connectors. These have the advantage of being infinitely adjustable. Since there will inevitably be loose strap ends hanging around, they may not be tidy enough for some people. Knee pads should be put on, but placed just below, rather than directly on the knees. Knee pads are not normally required if you use web belts. However, they are critical to protect the shins if quick links or clips are used.

Sit the person on the ground and have them put their arms over their knees. Thread the pipe or 4X4 under the knees and above the arms. (See Fig. 12 . ) The pipe or 4X4 is then attached to the chain host. Raise the bottom off the ground. (See Fig. 11 . ) Because the pipe is locked between the bottoms knees and elbows, it won’t slip. While it is traditional to inflict other pain to a person in the parrot perch, the position itself is rough enough. The pipe behind the knees is harder to take than the 4X4. The main safety considerations are making sure that your hoisting equipment is secure and checking often for numbness in the hands.

MetalbondNYC MetalbondNYC_BondageForPain_12

A favorite position of mine which also involves getting relief in one part of the body at the expense of another part is illustrated in Fig. 13. All that is needed are wrist and ankle restraints, some rope and an overhead fastening point. A chain hoist hanging from above is ideal, but rope thrown over a tree branch or beam will work, as long as it can be made tight enough to resist the struggles of the bottom.

To put the bottom in position, begin by using one length of rope to make a cock and ball harness. While a commercial cock and ball harness or parachute could be used, I have found that they will eventually slip and give the bottom more freedom than planned.  Lock the wrists to the chain host or tie them with rope overhead in such a way that the top can adjust the length easily. Now tie the ankle restraints together and to the cock and balls so that the bottom cannot stand up straight. The best starting length is such that when the bottom tries to stand up, his cock and balls are stretched quite tight when his thighs are at a 45-degree angle. Finally raise the wrists just high enough so that the bottom will not be able to rest his buttocks on his ankles when his arms are fully stretched overhead.

MetalbondNYC

Now the fun begins. When the bottom positions himself at the lowest point, he is having to support a good part of his weight by his wrists and his arms will get tired fairly fast. He will then try to stand up to relieve the strain on his wrists, but will not be able to stand up fully. He will have to support most of his weight by his legs at a great mechanical disadvantage. He will feel it in the quadriceps first, but eventually all the leg muscles will ache and he will squat back into suspension by his arms, starting the cycle over again. By adjusting the length of the chain hoist and cock and ball rope, the intensity of the scene can be varied.

Be sure to use well-padded wrist restraints. Since the bottom can take the pressure of his arms, breathing is not an issue here, but he still needs to be monitored continuously. If you push the bottom hard in this scene, he may not be able to keep his balance once you let him go. When it comes time to release him, undo the rope between the ankle restraints and balls first. He can then use the overhead rope to assist himself in standing, but you should also be prepared to assist him and help him “work his legs out.”

 

THE END

 

NOTE: this article and pictures are Copyright © 1994, 2010 and 2013 by Mountain Publications, a division of Telecentral Electronics.

Posted by Metalbond with permission.

 

Checkmate magazine Issue 8

 

Metalbond would like to thank Jim for his help with preparing the text of this article for posting.

Woof! Joeyrope shares tips for fun pup play

Joeyrope with pup

PUP PLAY:

a softer side of S/M play

By Joeyrope

“WOOF!! WOOF!!” 
(the obvious opening but still valid nonetheless).

I still get a rush when I hear that sound from a pup at the end of my leash. There is nothing more appealing than walking into a room and being confronted by a guy on all fours barking for your attention.  To those who practice pup play, there is no more satisfying experience or more intense power play than a Trainer/pup scene … but how to do it? What is pup play? Pup play is basically a power exchange that takes the form of a sub on all fours in the “pup mode” frame of mind helped along by the proper handling by an experienced Trainer/Handler/Owner. It is not bestiality and does not involve play with biological pups (although I have caged boy pups with actual dogs for an afternoon).

JoeyropeHow is it done? For a satisfying experience for both Trainer and pup there has to be a conversation about expectations and logistics: what gear you have, where will it occur, what you expect from each other, etc. You have to be on the same page or it could be a disaster if the Trainer wants to spend some quiet time with pup and pup is too frisky and wants to run around with other pups. Conversely, it doesn’t work out for the best if the Trainer wants to show off his pup and put him through his paces and pup just wants to nap in his cage all evening. There are different aspects of pup play to consider. There are training sessions, time just spent in pup mode bonding with each other, showing off your pup in public such as an organized pup party where multiple Handlers show up at the same venue with their pups in tow, etc.

WOOF!! WOOFPup play is similar to other SM play. The most important aspect, like other SM play, is trust. Being stripped down, muzzled and wearing a collar and leash is really putting it out there, especially if you’re in a public situation. Pups need to understand and offer a Handler their vulnerability and it is the Trainer’s responsibility to protect and ensure that the vulnerability he is given is savored and protected. For pup play to be the most satisfying for the pup, he has to establish a very trusting bond with his Handler. This is not for the faint of heart!  Publicly, it is not like cruising in a bar with a a colored hanky as the only indication of your desires, this is being all the way out there with everyone knowing what you’re up for the minute they see you. For it to be a good experience for the Trainer, he has to be confident, know how to bring out the best in his pup and trust that pup will respond in kind. Trust is established in the same way as any other situation. TRUST YOUR GUT! First you have to want it yourself and open up yourself to your Trainer as he has to open up to you as well. Chemistry counts!  If there is no chemistry between Trainer and pup the scene is over before it even gets started. Once trust is established, both of you can put yourselves into the scene and explore and experience it. A great aspect of pup play is the pride that develops within both Trainer and pup. Nothing gives an Owner/Handler more pride than an obedient, loyal pup built up with the confidence that respect and training can bring out in him. And nothing makes a pup feel better than a confident trainer who will appreciate and protect his pet.

Joeyrope has been a reliable member of the BDSM community for over thirty yearsThen there is the power exchange. The Trainer, leash in hand, has the ultimate power over his pup. He is in control, monitoring every aspect of his pup’s behavior. There is both affection and discipline (besides a pup’s favorite toy, I also carry a rolled up newspaper or magazine just in case pup gets a little too frisky. Nothing keeps a pup in line like a good whack across the butt!) Communication is primary. When pup is “in mode” he does not stand, he does not speak words. Because his access to communication is limited, he has to express himself through body language and sound and his handler has to know how to interpret each growl, bark and whimper. Use physical contact to communicate. Try rubbing or patting your pup on the head, scratching him behind the ears or a confident slap on the side to show affection. Pup can cuddle at his Master’s feet or even jump up into his lap. And don’t forget the puppy licks either!  A Handler can indicate an end to play by saying so or unleashing the pup and a pup needs to know how to signal an end too, several hours in pup mitts and on all fours in knee pads can ultimately be too painful for a pup to continue further.

There is specialized gear for pup play to help enhance the experience. The obvious gear choices include a collar, leash and dog mitts to keep that opposable human thumb from coming into play (dogs don’t have them) I keep a lighter set of mitts for home use and a heavier, thicker pair for use on concrete floors and harder surfaces. A good pair of thick knee pads will go a long way to making a pup comfortable enough to extend playtime. A good muzzle helps as well as does dog bowls for food and water. Try a puppy tail butt plug or a dog shaped hood. I also have a portable cage that can be easily set up for apartment living or transportation. and I have used an electric dog collar.  And let’s not forget the toys! Visit your local pet shop for ideas.

A pup should also have a name to go along with his identity. I have always given my pups strong names to encourage them and give them confidence. My favorite is Maximus, given to a most excellent pup who will always have my affection. I encourage Owners to consider names thoughtfully.

A word about care and safety. A human is not built to be on all fours so care should be taken when playtime is over. Massaging knees and hands after gear is removed helps with the bonding process as well as general comfort of your pet. There are also two sides to the question of human consumption of food specially made for animals (not taking sides here). I also NEVER allow anyone else to handle my pup when he is under my control and never let him out of my sight even if he is sniffing under the bushes or in a bar.

These are a few of the issues and concerns involved in pup play. Not all of them are discussed here. I encourage both Trainers and pups to thoughtfully explore this most satisfying side of BDSM and, above all, be safe and have a blast! It can be the most exhilarating experience for both pup and Handler.

 

Joeyrope has been a reliable member of the BDSM community for over thirty years. A member and President of GMSMA [Gay Male S/M Activists], IML [International Mr. Leather] judge, teacher and mentor, he is available for lectures and both private and group classes. He can be contacted by using the ‘contact Metalbond’ form at the upper right of the About tab.

 

NOTE: This article was originally published in The Leather Man’s ‘Tips & Tricks’ eNewsletter, May 2012. Metal would like to thank Joeyrope and The Leather Man for allowing this article to be posted here.

 

The leatherman

The 10 Commandments of Handcuffs

You know, fellas, sometimes I tend to go a little crazy on this blog with entries about how hot and exciting it is to see a man in handcuffs. But let’s get serious for a moment. Listen, no matter how turned on we all get about this stuff, it is always best to remember this: safety comes first. When not used properly, handcuffs can actually cause real physical damage. Especially if you are using inadequate equipment or if you do not know what you are doing.

So — in keeping with the Top 10 List theme — I thought it might be a good idea to share some basic safety information about steel bondage. At the recommendation of my friend David Stein, I asked none other than Harold Cox (who has kept me in handcuffs longer than any other man I have ever played with) for an article called “The Ten Commandments of Steel Bondage.” It was originally written by Harold and published in Dungeonmaster Magazine in 1981. It was subsequently used in a presentation by Harold and david at GMSMA in New York.

Harold has graciously updated the article, and it is presented here:

 

The Ten Commandments of Handcuffs

Revised and updated by Harold Cox 11 October 2009

For those who like realism in bondage, there is no substitute for steel — handcuffs and leg irons. Leather and rope can be cut, or be insecure, and/or dangerously tight. Unfortunately, many tops who use handcuffs are not familiar with their use, which can cause damage to their prisoners. If followed, the rules below will allow players to enjoy their scenes more under safer conditions.

1. DON’T BUY CHEAP HANDCUFFS.

Most cheap cuffs can be easily broken or forced open. A good pair of handcuffs bought in a police supply store or ordered from a reputable specialty internet supplier will cost little more than junk cuffs sold in porn shops. For modern-style U.S.-made cuffs, Smith and Wesson is recommended, with Peerless as second-choice.

2. SHOP FOR THE BEST PRICES.

A good pair bought over the internet from a police supply house will cost little more than junk cuffs sold in porn shops. Smith & Wesson #1900 leg irons can be purchased from the Handcuff Warehouse for $40.99. The identical leg irons are sold by internet toy shops for $79.95. Caveat emptor.

I have had no problems with Warehouse’s service. A pair of S&W leg irons purchased about a year ago had a slight defect. They were replaced immediately upon complaint and the Warehouse paid the cost of return postage. I have reservations about Warehouse’s house brand – Chicago handcuffs – some of which could cause an accident in rough-house play.

3. DON’T BUY CUFFS WITHOUT A DOUBLE-LOCK MECHANISM.

Usually the set-lock is closed by inserting the pointed tip of the handcuff key into a small hole on the top of the lock case of the cuffs. The set-lock is released by turning the key backward in the keyhole. To lock the cuffs Smith & Wesson uses a pin accessed through the side of the lock case, which has the advantage of being accessible from either face of the cuff when locking.

4. ALWAYS DOUBLE-LOCK CUFFS AFTER THEY HAVE BEEN APPLIED.

Cuffs that have not been double-locked can tighten on the wrists if the prisoner struggles or changes position and thereby cause damage to the nerves. Do not buy handcuffs with lever double-locks. These can be accidentally unlocked in a rough scene allowing the cuff to be tightened, or allow the cuffs to be unlocked by the prisoner, facilitating a possible escape.

5. DON’T MAKE CUFFS TOO TIGHT.

The point of steel bondage is that it doesn’t have to be tight to be secure. Don’t tighten cuffs more than necessary. As long as the cuff won’t slip off, it’s tight enough. It should still be easy to move the cuff on your prisoner’s wrist after it has been locked and set. Assuming that no tension is applied to the fastening point, the cuff bows should not press into the skin at any point. A quick safety check can be made by the captor by attempting to slip his little finger between the cuff and the flat surface of the captive’s wrist. If no part of the end of the finger can enter the space, the cuff is too tight.

6. NEVER SUSPEND YOUR PRISONER BY STEEL RESTRAINTS, OR MAKE THE PRISONER LIE ON HIS/HER CUFFED WRISTS.

This can cause severe nerve damage. Suspending the arms above the head with steel cuffs, even with feet or body primly planted on the floor, can cause damage if the tension is great or the position is held for more than a few minutes.

7. DON’T APPLY HANDCUFFS BY SWINGING THEM AGAINST THE WRISTS FROM A DISTANCE.

You can break someone’s wrist or arm that way. The outer edge of the cuff should just touch the wrist as you apply it. A short downward snap will swing the bow up through the locking part of the cuff and then back down and around the wrist. Practice snapping cuffs onto yourself until you get the technique down right. If it hurts you, it is going to hurt the prisoner. Practicing on your wrist is a slow process since you will have to unlock it after every attempt. You can eliminate this problem by holding two fingers together and snapping the cuffs over the fingers.

8. CUFF THE HANDS BEHIND THE BACK.

Unless secured otherwise, cuffs attached in front can be a dangerous weapon. For s/m scenes where high security is less important than minimizing unnecessary damage to the bottom, it is better to fasten handcuffs behind the back so the palms are facing each other, making any tension on the cuffs affect only the less-vulnerable outer sides of the wrists. Palms-out behind the back provide better security but is riskier and less comfortable.

9. DON’T TIGHTEN LEG IRONS.

Leg irons don’t have to be tight to stay on. If they are, the bottom won’t be able to walk, and the pressure could damage the Achilles tendon or bruise the ankles. Leg irons over boots are best if the prisoner will have to move around in them. Smith & Wesson leg irons are recommended because of their oval design. Leg irons should not be tightened more than two clicks when being applied. This will be sufficient to keep the iron from popping open accidentally. Probably the most comfortable way to use leg irons is to have the prisoner wear high-top shoes so that the leg irons can rest on the top of shoe. Pulling down the pants of the prisoner between the leg and the iron will also help to cushion the leg.

10. KEEP EXTRA KEYS HANDY.

Nothing can ruin a scene quicker than trying to remove the bottom’s restraints (or those you have put on yourself) and finding that you can’t locate the keys.