Tag Archives: how-to

Woof! Joeyrope shares tips for fun pup play

July 23, 2012 Metal 2 Comments

PUP PLAY:

a softer side of S/M play

By Joeyrope

“WOOF!! WOOF!!”  (the obvious opening but still valid nonetheless).

I still get a rush when I hear that sound from a pup at the end of my leash. There is nothing more appealing than walking into a room and being confronted by a guy on all fours barking for your attention. To those who practice pup play, there is no more satisfying experience or more intense power play than a Trainer/pup scene … but how to do it? What is pup play? Pup play is basically a power exchange that takes the form of a sub on all fours in the “pup mode” frame of mind helped along by the proper handling by an experienced Trainer/Handler/Owner. It is not bestiality and does not involve play with biological pups (although I have caged boy pups with actual dogs for an afternoon).

Joeyrope How is it done? For a satisfying experience for both Trainer and pup there has to be a conversation about expectations and logistics: what gear you have, where will it occur, what you expect from each other, etc. You have to be on the same page or it could be a disaster if the Trainer wants to spend some quiet time with pup and pup is too frisky and wants to run around with other pups. Conversely, it doesn’t work out for the best if the Trainer wants to show off his pup and put him through his paces and pup just wants to nap in his cage all evening. There are different aspects of pup play to consider. There are training sessions, time just spent in pup mode bonding with each other, showing off your pup in public such as an organized pup party where multiple Handlers show up at the same venue with their pups in tow, etc.

WOOF!! WOOF Pup play is similar to other SM play. The most important aspect, like other SM play, is trust. Being stripped down, muzzled and wearing a collar and leash is really putting it out there, especially if you’re in a public situation. Pups need to understand and offer a Handler their vulnerability and it is the Trainer’s responsibility to protect and ensure that the vulnerability he is given is savored and protected. For pup play to be the most satisfying for the pup, he has to establish a very trusting bond with his Handler. This is not for the faint of heart! Publicly, it is not like cruising in a bar with a a colored hanky as the only indication of your desires, this is being all the way out there with everyone knowing what you’re up for the minute they see you. For it to be a good experience for the Trainer, he has to be confident, know how to bring out the best in his pup and trust that pup will respond in kind. Trust is established in the same way as any other situation. TRUST YOUR GUT! First you have to want it yourself and open up yourself to your Trainer as he has to open up to you as well. Chemistry counts! If there is no chemistry between Trainer and pup the scene is over before it even gets started. Once trust is established, both of you can put yourselves into the scene and explore and experience it. A great aspect of pup play is the pride that develops within both Trainer and pup. Nothing gives an Owner/Handler more pride than an obedient, loyal pup built up with the confidence that respect and training can bring out in him. And nothing makes a pup feel better than a confident trainer who will appreciate and protect his pet.

Joeyrope has been a reliable member of the BDSM community for over thirty years Then there is the power exchange. The Trainer, leash in hand, has the ultimate power over his pup. He is in control, monitoring every aspect of his pup’s behavior. There is both affection and discipline (besides a pup’s favorite toy, I also carry a rolled up newspaper or magazine just in case pup gets a little too frisky. Nothing keeps a pup in line like a good whack across the butt!) Communication is primary. When pup is “in mode” he does not stand, he does not speak words. Because his access to communication is limited, he has to express himself through body language and sound and his handler has to know how to interpret each growl, bark and whimper. Use physical contact to communicate. Try rubbing or patting your pup on the head, scratching him behind the ears or a confident slap on the side to show affection. Pup can cuddle at his Master’s feet or even jump up into his lap. And don’t forget the puppy licks either! A Handler can indicate an end to play by saying so or unleashing the pup and a pup needs to know how to signal an end too, several hours in pup mitts and on all fours in knee pads can ultimately be too painful for a pup to continue further.

There is specialized gear for pup play to help enhance the experience. The obvious gear choices include a collar, leash and dog mitts to keep that opposable human thumb from coming into play (dogs don’t have them) I keep a lighter set of mitts for home use and a heavier, thicker pair for use on concrete floors and harder surfaces. A good pair of thick knee pads will go a long way to making a pup comfortable enough to extend playtime. A good muzzle helps as well as does dog bowls for food and water. Try a puppy tail butt plug or a dog shaped hood. I also have a portable cage that can be easily set up for apartment living or transportation. and I have used an electric dog collar. And let’s not forget the toys! Visit your local pet shop for ideas.

A pup should also have a name to go along with his identity. I have always given my pups strong names to encourage them and give them confidence. My favorite is Maximus, given to a most excellent pup who will always have my affection. I encourage Owners to consider names thoughtfully.

A word about care and safety. A human is not built to be on all fours so care should be taken when playtime is over. Massaging knees and hands after gear is removed helps with the bonding process as well as general comfort of your pet. There are also two sides to the question of human consumption of food specially made for animals (not taking sides here). I also NEVER allow anyone else to handle my pup when he is under my control and never let him out of my sight even if he is sniffing under the bushes or in a bar.

These are a few of the issues and concerns involved in pup play. Not all of them are discussed here. I encourage both Trainers and pups to thoughtfully explore this most satisfying side of BDSM and, above all, be safe and have a blast! It can be the most exhilarating experience for both pup and Handler.

Joeyrope has been a reliable member of the BDSM community for over thirty years. A member and President of GMSMA [Gay Male S/M Activists], IML [International Mr. Leather] judge, teacher and mentor, he is available for lectures and both private and group classes. He can be contacted by using the ‘contact Metalbond’ form at the upper right of the About tab.

NOTE: This article was originally published in The Leather Man’s ‘Tips & Tricks’ eNewsletter, May 2012. Metal would like to thank Joeyrope and The Leather Man for allowing this article to be posted here.

Daily Thread

The 10 Commandments of Handcuffs

October 17, 2011 Metal Leave a comment

You know, fellas, sometimes I tend to go a little crazy on this blog with entries about how hot and exciting it is to see a man in handcuffs. But let’s get serious for a moment. Listen, no matter how turned on we all get about this stuff, it is always best to remember this: safety comes first. When not used properly, handcuffs can actually cause real physical damage. Especially if you are using inadequate equipment or if you do not know what you are doing.

So — in keeping with the Top 10 List theme — I thought it might be a good idea to share some basic safety information about steel bondage. At the recommendation of my friend David Stein, I asked none other than Harold Cox (who has kept me in handcuffs longer than any other man I have ever played with) for an article called “The Ten Commandments of Steel Bondage.” It was originally written by Harold and published in Dungeonmaster Magazine in 1981. It was subsequently used in a presentation by Harold and david at GMSMA in New York.

Harold has graciously updated the article, and it is presented here:

The Ten Commandments of Handcuffs

Revised and updated by Harold Cox 11 October 2009

For those who like realism in bondage, there is no substitute for steel — handcuffs and leg irons. Leather and rope can be cut, or be insecure, and/or dangerously tight. Unfortunately, many tops who use handcuffs are not familiar with their use, which can cause damage to their prisoners. If followed, the rules below will allow players to enjoy their scenes more under safer conditions.

1. DON’T BUY CHEAP HANDCUFFS.

Most cheap cuffs can be easily broken or forced open. A good pair of handcuffs bought in a police supply store or ordered from a reputable specialty internet supplier will cost little more than junk cuffs sold in porn shops. For modern-style U.S.-made cuffs, Smith and Wesson is recommended, with Peerless as second-choice.

2. SHOP FOR THE BEST PRICES.

A good pair bought over the internet from a police supply house will cost little more than junk cuffs sold in porn shops. Smith & Wesson #1900 leg irons can be purchased from the Handcuff Warehouse for $40.99. The identical leg irons are sold by internet toy shops for $79.95. Caveat emptor.

I have had no problems with Warehouse’s service. A pair of S&W leg irons purchased about a year ago had a slight defect. They were replaced immediately upon complaint and the Warehouse paid the cost of return postage. I have reservations about Warehouse’s house brand – Chicago handcuffs – some of which could cause an accident in rough-house play.

3. DON’T BUY CUFFS WITHOUT A DOUBLE-LOCK MECHANISM.

Usually the set-lock is closed by inserting the pointed tip of the handcuff key into a small hole on the top of the lock case of the cuffs. The set-lock is released by turning the key backward in the keyhole. To lock the cuffs Smith & Wesson uses a pin accessed through the side of the lock case, which has the advantage of being accessible from either face of the cuff when locking.

4. ALWAYS DOUBLE-LOCK CUFFS AFTER THEY HAVE BEEN APPLIED.

Cuffs that have not been double-locked can tighten on the wrists if the prisoner struggles or changes position and thereby cause damage to the nerves. Do not buy handcuffs with lever double-locks. These can be accidentally unlocked in a rough scene allowing the cuff to be tightened, or allow the cuffs to be unlocked by the prisoner, facilitating a possible escape.

5. DON’T MAKE CUFFS TOO TIGHT.

The point of steel bondage is that it doesn’t have to be tight to be secure. Don’t tighten cuffs more than necessary. As long as the cuff won’t slip off, it’s tight enough. It should still be easy to move the cuff on your prisoner’s wrist after it has been locked and set. Assuming that no tension is applied to the fastening point, the cuff bows should not press into the skin at any point. A quick safety check can be made by the captor by attempting to slip his little finger between the cuff and the flat surface of the captive’s wrist. If no part of the end of the finger can enter the space, the cuff is too tight.

6. NEVER SUSPEND YOUR PRISONER BY STEEL RESTRAINTS, OR MAKE THE PRISONER LIE ON HIS/HER CUFFED WRISTS.

This can cause severe nerve damage. Suspending the arms above the head with steel cuffs, even with feet or body primly planted on the floor, can cause damage if the tension is great or the position is held for more than a few minutes.

7. DON’T APPLY HANDCUFFS BY SWINGING THEM AGAINST THE WRISTS FROM A DISTANCE.

You can break someone’s wrist or arm that way. The outer edge of the cuff should just touch the wrist as you apply it. A short downward snap will swing the bow up through the locking part of the cuff and then back down and around the wrist. Practice snapping cuffs onto yourself until you get the technique down right. If it hurts you, it is going to hurt the prisoner. Practicing on your wrist is a slow process since you will have to unlock it after every attempt. You can eliminate this problem by holding two fingers together and snapping the cuffs over the fingers.

8. CUFF THE HANDS BEHIND THE BACK.

Unless secured otherwise, cuffs attached in front can be a dangerous weapon. For s/m scenes where high security is less important than minimizing unnecessary damage to the bottom, it is better to fasten handcuffs behind the back so the palms are facing each other, making any tension on the cuffs affect only the less-vulnerable outer sides of the wrists. Palms-out behind the back provide better security but is riskier and less comfortable.

9. DON’T TIGHTEN LEG IRONS.

Leg irons don’t have to be tight to stay on. If they are, the bottom won’t be able to walk, and the pressure could damage the Achilles tendon or bruise the ankles. Leg irons over boots are best if the prisoner will have to move around in them. Smith & Wesson leg irons are recommended because of their oval design. Leg irons should not be tightened more than two clicks when being applied. This will be sufficient to keep the iron from popping open accidentally. Probably the most comfortable way to use leg irons is to have the prisoner wear high-top shoes so that the leg irons can rest on the top of shoe. Pulling down the pants of the prisoner between the leg and the iron will also help to cushion the leg.

10. KEEP EXTRA KEYS HANDY.

Nothing can ruin a scene quicker than trying to remove the bottom’s restraints (or those you have put on yourself) and finding that you can’t locate the keys.

Daily Thread

Keeping a Line on Your Bottom

April 1, 2011 Metal Leave a comment

Keeping a Line on Your Bottom (or Vice Versa)

By Harold Cox

From Checkmate 17, November 1996, posted with permission

One of the benefits of living on 50 acres are the opportunities presented for outdoors play. Curiously, Bob and I do only a limited amount here and not completely sure why. Weather is a limitation in the climate of Northeastern Pennsylvania, which has winter, summer and a four-hour interlude in between. Another possible problem is that most of the visitors to the Mountain are city slickers who are squeamish about the bugs and other critters that abound around, in and under the house. Even though we have a wasp nest in the front entrance which makes some visitors nervous (we signed a non-aggression pact several years ago and studiously ignore each other) there are less bugs, comparatively speaking, inside than outside.

We do have visitors who enjoy the out of doors, including Monterey Jack, whose idea of a good time is to be chained naked to a tree in the woods, preferably during a rainstorm (see his article in CM 16). This is another example of the importance of the mind in SM. Jack’s goal is to be completely helpless. He achieves this goal by getting himself into situations where he would rather be anyplace other than where he is and has no way of making relocation. This convinces him that he is truly out of control.

A couple of years ago, we decide to erect a dog run in the woods several hundred feet from the house for Jack’s entertainment. The design is quite simple and consists of a steel cable fastened between two trees and a chain to which the subject is attached with slides along the cable. The attachment can be to a steel collar, to handcuffs or to both, according to your preference. I don’t recommend attaching the chain to leg irons. There is usually too much debris lying on the forest floor that could snag the chain and possibly trip up the prisoner. We are using half-inch uncovered cable because we had a good supply on hand. However, weathered wire cable has a tendency to develop steel splinters and should be handled only with heavy gloves. New quarter-inch cable with plastic coating is smooth, and also lighter and easier to put in place, although we think that is lacks something of the air of authority provided by the larger cable.

The length of the cable depends upon the locations of the anchor trees and your personal tastes. The cable that we are using here is 40 feet long between the trees. This is long enough to provide the chainee with a suitable change of venue. For the meticulous captive who is going to be leashed for the better part of a day or more, it allows him to eat and live at one end of the cable while using the ground around the other end as his toilet. It’s little amenities like this that allow for gracious living under adverse circumstances.

You should probably not use a cable of more than 50 feet. The longer the cable, the more dead weight that you have to deal with while fastening it in place. Putting up a 40-foot cable is a two-man job, with one supporting the middle of the cable while the other fastens the second end to the tree.

We recommend fastening the cable between eight and ten feet high on the trees and keeping the lowest point on the cable higher than the height of the attached “dog.” The cable should be looped twice around the tree and held in place with suitable clamps. We use two half-inch u-bolt wire rope clamps at each end. These are available at any hardware store.

The chain leash should be long enough to reach the ground so that if it is attached to the subject’s collar he won’t be injured if he accidentally falls. It also allows him to lie down and rest during the long scene. We are using a 10-foot chain with a 2-and-a-half-inch steel ring welded to one end to use as a slide (see pictures). You can use the end link of the chain if the link has an inside diameter large enough to keep it from binding on the cable. Use of a padlock or a threaded connecting link allows you to remove the chain from the cable without disconnecting one end of the cable from the tree. However, make sure they allow enough play to keep the chain from binding on the cable and if you used a connecting link make sure it’s tightened down enough that busy little hands can’t worry it loose and achieve an unauthorized escape.

There are a lot of possibilities for scenes based on this setup. A small lean-to can be placed at one end of the run in which the detainee can set up housekeeping for an indeterminate period. We have done no long-term confinement using the dog run here at the Mountain, a long afternoon being the limit thus far. However, we are advised of one situation in southern California where a Top going on vacation left his bottom in the care of a friend for a week or two. The bottom was in a similar situation to this, was fed regularly and periodically hosed down. We have no way of authenticating this story, although the Top who told us (the bottom sitter) has a good reputation and the arid climate in which it supposedly occurred would make it feasible as long as shelter from the sun was available.

Metal would like to thank the author, who can be contacted on Recon under the screen name Zerotaf.

Also thanks to nycbondageswitch for helping prepare the text for posting here on Metalbond.